May 10

A Wine Lover’s Near-weekly Review Of $15 Wine – A Kosher Tempranillo From Spain

Elvi wines claims a heritage that dates back to 1492. They have been making Kosher wine since 2003. While their vineyards are located in the Montsant wine region of Catalonia in northeastern Spain they also source grapes from several other regions. This wine carries the prestigious Rioja DOC (Denomacion de Origen Calificada) appellation signifying that it comes from one of Spain’s top wine regions. Their co-producer is Bodegas Castillo de Sajazarra, named for a Fourteenth Century castle; one really worth visiting if you are in this great wine region. The companion wine is yet another Kosher for Passover Tempranillo, one coming from Argentina at about two-thirds the price.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review were purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed
Elvi Wines Mati KP Rioja DOC 2010 13.5 % alcohol about $15.

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. “Description : This full-bodied Tempranillo is intense with dark fruit flavors and hints of herbs and cassis leading to a lengthy, poised finish.” And now for my review.

At the first sips this wine was mouth filling offering good acidity and light tannins. Wasabi-dusted peanuts perked up the acidity; now I tasted black cherries in my glass. The main dish was homemade fried turkey breast right off the skillet. The libation was long and responded with a multilayered burnt taste that was accompanied by some oak and dark cherries. Sauteed snow peas and mushrooms provided this liquid with some iron and a great balance between its acidity and tannins. This fine meal terminated with bittersweet chocolate. Unfortunately only a little fruit remained in the wine.

The second meal focused on ground beef accompanied by chick peas, tomatoes, and lots of spices including chili. The Tempranillo was slightly sweet, dark, and metallic. It offered some oak and black cherries. Perhaps surprisingly steamed quinoa managed to intensify this liquid. Soy beans with roasted red peppers rendered our Spanish friend long and dark but its acidity soured. Gobs of Chinese chili sauce on the meat virtually eliminated the juice’s fruit. In the presence of fresh strawberries Red maintained its darkness and oak.

The final meal started off with Gefilte fish, in this case a combination of Mullet, Carp, and Whitefish slathered with red (beet juice for the uninitiated) horseradish. In response the Tempranillo was light presenting refreshing acidity and a bit of oak. The centerpiece was Eggplant Rolatini, a boxed vegetarian meal that I doused with lots of grated Parmesan cheese. And now the drink was round but light.

Final verdict. I would buy this wine again. But the call was fairly close. And guess what, it is no longer available in my bailiwick.


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